From Crochet – the Complete Guide by Jane Davis

Coasters are easy, quick projects that can be made using yarn or thread. They are good small projects to use as gifts or to try out colors and patterns. This granny square uses one skein each of DMC 6 strand embroidery floss in colors #471 (A), #988 (B), #937 (C), #934 (D), #829 (E), #975 (F), and #783 (G).

Skill level – Intermediate

Finished size – approx 4″ square

Yarn – 7 skeins six-strand embroidery floss, 1 each of colors A, B, C, D, E, F, and G.

Hook – US E (3.5 mm) crochet hook

Notions – tapestry needle

Gauge – First 3 rounds = 1 3/4 inch (4 cm) square

INSTRUCTIONS

With yarn A, ch 4.

RND 1: (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2,4 dc) in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join–ch-2 corner spaces. Fasten off yarn A, join yarn B.

RND 2: With yarn B, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch 2 space; repeat from * 3 times, (4 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 2 space, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off yarn B, join yarn C.

RND 3: With yarn C, ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in ch-2 space, ch 2, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 space**, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2; rep from *twice; rep from * to ** once more, ch 2, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off yarn C, join yarn D.

RND 4: With yarn D, ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), 4 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 space**, (ch 2, 4 dc) in each of next 2 ch-2 spaces; rep from * twice; rep from * to ** once more, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 space, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off yarn D, join yarn E.

RND 5: With yarn E, ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 space**, (ch 2, 4 dc) in each of next 3 ch-2 spaces, ch 2; rep from * twice; rep from * to ** once more, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, ch2, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off yarn E, join yarn F.

RND 6: With yarn F, ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), (4 dc, ch 2) in each of nexy 2 ch-2 spaces, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 space**, (ch 2, 4 dc) in each of next 4 ch-2 spaces; rep fro * twice; rep from * to ** once more, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 space, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off yarn F.

RND 7: With RS facing, join yarn G in next ch-2 space, ch 1, sc in first ch-2 space, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) bet center 2 dc of next 4-dc group, sc in next ch-2 space] twice, *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) bet 2 dc of next 4-dc group, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-2 corner space**, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) bet center 2 dc of 4-dc group, sc in next ch-2 space] 5 times; rep from * twice; rep from * to ** once more, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) bet center 2 dc of next 4-dc group, sc in next ch-2 space] twice, (2dc, ch 3, 2 dc) bet center 2 dc of next 4-dc group, sl st in first sc to join. Secure last stitch. Weave in ends using tapestry needle.

Angel Ornament Pattern

By: Phyllis of Many Creative Gifts

Create a beautiful crochet angel ornament. This craft can be used for any time of year. You can use it as a decoration or you can sew it to a piece of clothing. It can be placed beautifully on your Christmas tree too!

Materials:

* Any DK or light worsted weight yarn:
* 1 skein, Patons Grace, 100% mercerized cotton
* # 62005 Snow (1.75 oz/50 g, 136 yds/125 m per skein)
* Size D/3/3.25 mm crochet hook

Glossary:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
RS = wrong side

Steps:

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 sc in second ch from hook, then 1 sc, 3 dcs, 2 scs, 3 dcs into same st, sl st to top of 1st sc, do not turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, 2 scs in each of next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, sl st to top of 1st sc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dcs in same st and next st, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dcs in next st, ch 1, skip next st, 2 dcs in each of next 2 sts, turn.

Row 4: (right side) Ch 3, 2 dcs in same st and each of next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, ch 1, skip next st, 2dcs in each of next 4 sts, turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, 3 dcs in same st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dcs in next st, ch 2, skip st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 3 dcs in next st, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, 1sc in same st and each of next 12 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dcs in next st, ch 2, skip next st, 1sc in next st and each of last 12 sts, turn.

Row 7: Sl st into next 12 sts, sl st into loop, ch 3, 1 dc into ch 2 loop below, 2 dcs into next st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, 2 dcs into next st, 2 dcs into ch 2 loop below, turn

Row 8: Ch 3, 2 dcs in same st, 1 dc in each st across until last st, 2 dcs in last st, turn.

Row 9: Repeat Row 8.

Row 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st and each of next 7 sts, 2 dcs in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, 2 dcs in last st, turn.

Row 11: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st and each st across until last st, 2 dcs in last st, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, 2 scs in same st, 1 sc in each st across until last st, 2 scs in last st, fasten off.

Find this and other great stuff at You will learn to crochet

If you are looking at your first crochet pattern, start by looking at the preliminary section that describes the needed materials, crochet gauge, and size information.  Scan over how the project is constructed.  If it’s a stitch that is new to you, you may not be able to figure it out until you have your hook and yarn in hand.

A well written pattern will include the following:

• a materials list and gauge instruction, row-by-row instruction, and finishing instruction.

• frequently a combination of text and symbols for stitch patterns, allowing you to choose a format that works for you.

• information on yarn weight and content.

• gauge in the main stitch pattern and sometimes in all stitch patterns.

• suggested hook size to obtain gauge.

• a range of sizes.

• easy to read print with instructions that use standard abbreviations.  Any special abbreviations or techniques are explained clearly.

Pattern instructions can be provided in several different formats.  They can be written out as text, displayed on a chart, shown using symbols, or any combination of these.

Webmasters Make $$$

The designer of a crochet pattern will create a gauge by default, just by the weight of the yarn and the size of the hook they use. Gauge is also determined by your tension, how tight or loose you hold your yarn when crocheting. Gauge determines the finished size of your project. If your gauge is too small, try a hook one size larger. If it is too big, use a smaller one.

Say you have a pattern that calls for a “J” hook and a 4-ply yarn. You have a 3-ply yarn you like and want to use a “H” hook. You will need more stitches across the pattern because these are smaller. You will need to determine how many stitches you will need to do to achieve the measurements in the pattern. You need to get the width right at the beginning so you don’t end up ripping out your work. Gauging your work is especially important if your project is a clothing item.

Found at FaveCraft
By: Bernat

Use this free crochet shawl pattern to create a subtly striped wrap.  The shawl is quick & easy, worked lengthwise on a large hook.  The bamboo yarn is silky smooth and will transition into warmer weather.

Materials:
Yarn: Bernat Bamboo (60 g/2.1 oz)- 6 balls of #92008 as A, 6 balls of #92130 as B
Crochet Hook: Size 8 mm (U.S. L or 11) or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge: 12 sts and 10 rows = 4 ins 10 cm in pat.

Instructions:

With A, ch 211.

1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 210 sc.

2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Join B. Turn.

3rd and 4th rows: With B, ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Rep from to last sc. 1 sc in last sc.

Keeping cont of Stripe Pat (last 4 rows), rep last row for 15 ins 38 cm, ending with 1 row of A.

Next row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st across.

Fasten off.

(RS) means right side.

YO or yo (Yarn Over)- To yarn over means to bring the yarn over the hook of your crochet hook so that the hook can catch the yarn and draw it through the loop.  Literally, bring the yarn over the hook.

approx-approximately

beg-begin, beginning

BPdc-back post double crochet

BPsc-back post single crochet

ch sp-chain space

ch-chain stitch

cont-continue, continuing

ea-each

foll-follows, following

FPdc-front post double crochet

FPsc-front post single crochet

hk-hook

lp(s)-loop, loops

sc- single crochet

hfc- half double crochet

dc- double crochet

tc_ treble (triple) crochet

st(s)- stitch(es)

sl st- slip stitch

sk- skip

dec- decrease

inc- increase

sc2tog- single crochet two stitches together

lp(s)-loop(s)

rnd(s)-round(s)

dtr-double treble crochet

sp(s)-space(s)

beg-beginning

rep-repeat

tog-together

rs-right side

lp st-loop stitch

ws-wrong side

BLO or BL-Back Loop Only – Back Loop

FLO or FL-Front Loop Only – Front Loop

CC-contrasting color

Rev-Reverse

MC-main color

To begin crocheting, you need to tie the yarn to your crochet hook with a slipknot.  You wrap the yarn around the hook, bringing the end portion of the yarn on top into a working loop.  Then you “yarn over” by bringing the bottom thread over the hook so that the hook can catch it, twisting, and pulling it through the loop.  You don’t want to pull the slipknot too tight. It has to be at least large enough to let the hook pass easily through it.

Whether you’re learning to crochet or more advanced, everything crocheted starts with a slip knot. Form a circle with the yarn, leaving a tail. Place the skein end of the yarn behind the circle and pull up a loop through the front. Tighten it, somewhat, by pulling the tail. Place the loop over your hook and tighten the loop by pulling the skein end of the yarn. You should still be able to slide the loop off the hook easily.

Learning to crochet basically involves six different stitches:

• Chain stitch – ch

• Slip stitch – sl

• Single crochet – sc

• Half-double crochet – hdc

• Double crochet – dc

• Treble (or triple) crochet – tc

Crochet patterns are based on various combinations of these six stitches.  But before you get started, you’ll need to know how to hold the yarn and the hook properly.

The most common way to hold a crochet hook is like a knife or a pen in your dominant hand.  Your other hand will guide your yarn to help you maintain the proper tension while your stitching.  Consistent tension is key to having stitches that are the same size and shape.  Most crocheters wrap the yarn around their index finger, while others will use more than one finger to anchor the yarn. Try it either way is most comfortable for you. You will figure out which method of holding the yarn works best for you.

Basic Crochet Stitches

Chain stitch. The chain stitch is the foundation for any project.  It is used to form the base of the first row of a pattern.
To get started, tie a slip knot. Leave a loop just big enough to pass the head of your crochet hook through easily.

Insert the hook into the loop, then wrap your yarn once over the hook and pull it through the loop.  This is your first chain stitch. Congratulations!  Repeat this process until you have the desired number of chain stitches for your project.  Make sure you can see daylight through each chain or you may not be able to ge the hook through the next row.

Now that you know how to make a chain stitch, there is no reason you can’t learn the other crochet stitches. Crochet stitches are all formed the same way – yarn over hook and pull through loops. When you begin the next row of stitches it is usually best to pass your hook through the V-shaped side of the chain stitch unless otherwise directed in the pattern.

Slip stitch. The slip stitch is used to connect two pieces of crocheted work together or to form a circle (for crocheting in the round or making a granny square).
To make a slip stitch, insert your crochet hook into the first stitch at the opposite end of your chain or row.  Pull yarn over the hook, then pull the hook back through the stitch along with the yarn loop.  Now, the two ends are connected.  This stitch is also used to form a finished edge around your project.

Single crochet. To form this stitch, insert your hook into the stitch next to it.  Yarn over the hook once and pull it through the stitch.  Yarn over the hook again and pull through both loops.  Your first single crochet stitch is done.  See how easy this is!

Half-double crochet. To make a half-double crochet, yarn over the hook and insert it into the next stitch.  Then, yarn over the hook again and pull it through the stitch.  You now have 3 loops on your hook.  Yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.  A half-double crochet makes a dense fabric.  I like to use it for scarves and mittens.

Double crochet. For the double crochet stitch, yarn over the hook and insert hook into the next stitch.  Once the hook is through the stitch, yarn over again and pull through the stitch.  There are now 3 loops on your hook.  Yarn over the hook and pull it through the first two loops on the hook.  This leaves 2 loops on your hook.  Yarn over the hook and pull through the two remaining loops on the hook.  Voila, a double crochet stitch.

Treble or triple crochet. The treble or triple crochet stitch is the tallest stitch of these basic stitches.  Using this stitch for afghans will make your work quick and easy.  To make a treble or triple crochet stitch, yarn over the hook twice before inserting the hook into the next stitch.  Then yarn over the hook again and pull through the stitch.  This will leave 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over the hook and pull through the first two loops on the hook, repeat until you only have one loop left on the hook.  You’ve made a treble or triple crochet stitch.